![]() GOVERNING LAW: This Limited Warranty shall be governed by the laws of the State of Minnesota, USA, and by the laws of the United States, excluding their conflicts of laws principles. ![]() is a manufacturer-supplier of products contained in this catalog and web site. We will not be responsible for any misuse of product, or for use of product in applications that it was not designed for. shall not be liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, or consequential damages or specific relief. is only responsible for the product itself, and nothing else that it is related to or used in connection with. is not responsible for damage to, or loss of the following items including but not limited to freight, tractor, trailer, death of the user, or anything else protected by this product. will repair or replace the item at its discretion, and prepay it back to you at no charge. at 95 or e-mail us at for a return goods authorization (RGA) number and the address to return the product.Īny product that does not have an RGA and a copy of the invoice showing the date of purchase accompanying it will not be considered for warranty, and will not be shipped back. If you think you have a defective product, please contact Transport Security, Inc. That there is no defect in material or workmanship. warrants the ENFORCER® Locks for one year, from the date of purchase guaranteeing You are dealing with steering and brakes is it worth the risk? If you insist on doing them (I say them because as stated above you do both not one side) good luck they can be a job that goes smoothly or they can fight you every step of the way.*Any returned lock MUST include all keys in order for a rull refund to be given I am tempted to say if you have never done them or have to ask how to do them it might be something to have more experienced person do. There is also possibility you might need new drag link or tie rod end depending on if cotter pin breaks and if you can drill/ punch it out. Some bushings are pre sized some are not and need sizing after they are driven into the spindle. Do you have a machine shop ready to size the bushings if needed. I have also had to cut/ or drill out the king pin lock bolts. Technically you should not heat the axle but if the pin is seized you do what is required. Rarely are two kingpin jobs the same.Some fall out,others have to be beaten out with heat.Remove your wheel,brakes,backing plates,tie rod,spyder.Remove tapered locking pin in axle eye,and top and bottom caps on spindle.Drive king pin out,hopefully comes out easy.Make sure your play was not in the axle itself,whole different job,then.In severe cases,have had to remove axle,and press pin out.Knock or cut old bushings out of spindle,carefully press in new ones.Keep an eye on how things come apart,not rocket science.Unless you have the right size reamer,you'll have to take your spindles to a truck front end shop to get your pins fitted.Put it all back together,the way it came apart.You will have to shim the new king pin bearing to get any play out.Shims should come in your kingpin kit.Once back together,grease well,spin both wheels and scribe center line on both tires.Have someone hold your tape measure,check front and back measurements.Toe in adjust tie rod to 1/8.Hope this helps,haven't done one for while,but that's how we did it in the old days,don't think much has changed,unless you have tapered king pins.Never fooled with them.ĭo you have torches? There has been times where the pin is seized and you will have to cut the thrust bearing to access pin to cut it so spindle can come off to allow better access to the seized pin.
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